assisi

Assisi is one of the most picture perfect hillside towns I have ever visited, but it does have a downside. It is completely overrun but both tourists and the tourist industry both wanting a piece of the St Francis action. Each day dozens of coaches arrive, releasing into the narrow cobbled stone streets, thousands of religious pilgrims, students and old people who climb over each other like they are at an end of season sale in order to tick all the boxes within their allotted 4 hours. I was unaware of this before I arrived but fortunately I had already decided to stay overnight. At night Assisi is magical. The locals close up their trinket pedalling businesses and fill up the bars and restaurants to spend their daily loot. The preconceived image I had of Assisi being a quiet place where a man could enjoy a cold beer brewed by a Franciscan monk was fulfilled, but that beer wasn’t easy to find. I located it in a little local wine and beer “gallery” by the name of Bibenda.

For things to see and do, Assisi’s headline act is the church of St Francis. Now I am not a church aficionado however it was pretty impressive and St Francis’ tomb is in the church itself. I touched it. There are quite a few other important churches there as well which I walked past. But for me the 14th Century fort, Rocca Maggiore, which offered 360 degree views of the town and surrounds as well as a just-manageable network of narrow tunnels and stairways, was the highlight.

This year, Assisi was the finish point for Stage 10 of the Giro d’Italia. Unfortunately I was early by two days, but preparations for what was labelled the most picturesque stage finish of the 95th running of the grand cycling tour were well underway. I did catch it live on television however, and it didn’t disappoint. My timing was unfortunate, but I don’t believe Assisi could have accommodated me at short notice with the teams and media circus taking over, but alas I saw this beautiful town at its most beautiful – night time.

spoleto

I could own a little place in Spoleto. Exciting things happen there. I arrived by train from Rome in just over an hour but due to a last minute change I initially only spent two hours there before heading off to Assisi. I returned the next day for a full day and I’m glad I did. The small yet steep hillside town had been taken over by a festival and race meet for what appeared to be 2-man bobsleds on wheels. The course snaked its way from the top of the town through the main street right down to the bottom, producing carnage at every turn. Commentary rumbled though the town P.A system that crackled like it hadn’t been used since World War 2, whilst up to 6 karts per race vied for spot in the final. I approached the sketchiest looking team and tried to convince them to let me sub in and drive their kart (a la Fine Cotton) so we could all retire early. I confused myself and them on the logistics so the idea didn’t take.

Aside from this, and the black truffle gluttony I had previously reported on, the other activities Spoleto offers include a walk up to a medieval fortress that guards the town, a walk across a 14th Century bridge built on the foundations of a Roman aqueduct, and a walk through the markets and shops. Basically a lot of walking but I like it.

The other thing I did in Spoleto was find an Australian $10 note lying on the cobble stones in a little lane. Ha..what are the odds! I guess all the other passers-by thought it was a toy.